Luzen de Navidad en Panama

My family teases me a bit about my obsession (at least that’s what they call it) with Christmas decorating. I love Christmas lights—OK, that’s an understatement. A pretty big chunk of our storage unit is taken up with Christmas decorations, and a big chunk of that is lights. Colored lights, white lights, icicle lights, old-fashioned funny bulbs, LEDs, solid lights, blinking lights—it makes my heart happy just to write these words.

Here in Panama, I have found my kindred spirits when it comes to Christmas lights!

Panamanians are my kindred spirts when it comes to Christmas lights!

About three weeks ago, Bob and I noticed workers wrapping the tree trunks at Parque Urraca, our neighborhood park, with lights. We wondered if someone might be having a wedding or special party. The work continued for several days, and then we noticed the trees along one of the boulevards we frequent were getting the same treatment.

Soon, crews were unloading big decorative balls from trucks. Reindeer outlined in lights popped up along the sidewalks. Lanes of busy Balboa Avenue were closed off each night as workers attached decorations to lampposts. Extensive icicle lights were hung from the pedestrian bridges.

Then, last week, several things that looked like cages showed up across the street from our apartment. Overnight (the crews work at night when it is cooler and fewer people are out), those cages transformed into a 50-foot (16-meter) Christmas tree covered in flashing, multi-colored LEDs that can be timed to music. It’s like Christmas light heaven!

Cutouts of traditionally dressed Panamanian men and women are joined in the parks by cutouts of Santa Claus and reindeer (you can stick your face in those for a photograph), all covered in lights. LED wise men trek among completely artificial trees composed only of lights.

There’s even a moose! In Panama! How about that?

Moose!

All of the lights get lit on December 1. Therefore, last night, we joined our friends Paul and Penny and tens out thousands of others to stroll along the Cinta Costera and gaze at the lights. Even having seen them go up, I was unprepared for the brightness and the enchantment of it all. Imagine eight- and ten-foot icicle lights hanging from banyan trees!

Along the sea walk, children and their parents sported light-up necklaces and hats and other sparkling paraphernalia. Street vendors sold light-up antlers and light-up swords and light-up miniature helicopter rotors that flew overhead—and just about anything else you can imagine that flashes or shines.

Other hawkers sold those little popper things that Americans usually have on the Fourth of July, small wads of gunpowder in white tissue paper that pop loudly when thrown on the ground. It seemed like every kid had at least one box!

As we strolled, fireworks (fuegos artificial en espanol) soared over Casco Viejo, the old city of Panama that dates back to the 1500s (and I promise will be the subject of a future blog). Every time we thought, “that must be the finale,” more red and green sparkles shot up into the sky.

Fireworks over Casco Viejo

It was such a beautiful evening, about 74 degrees F with a slight sea breeze. Everyone was smiling and laughing and truly strolling—no hurrying about or pushing and shoving. The salty smell of the ocean mixed with grilled meats, popcorn, cotton candy, and other treats from the street vendors.

Over all of it, the lights sparkled and shone and created a truly festive atmosphere, which fit the theme of the evening, Soy Panama. Soy Navidad (I am Panama, I am Christmas). Even my Christmas-light-skeptic husband strolled with a smile on his face. You couldn’t help but be happy among the crowd.

Our friend Mariame, assures us even more is coming. She says we will see Christmas lights hung from all the apartment balconies and decorating homes and trees all over the city. Mariame purchased her own balcony lights from Amazon, solar LEDs that she hopes will mean a lower electric bill.

I had hoped to decorate a palm tree with Christmas lights this season. The city of Panama and its residents are doing that for me, beyond my wildest imagination.

One of many Christmas-lit palms that I’ll claim as my own.

1 thought on “Luzen de Navidad en Panama”

  1. Wow! What beautiful photos and text! I really enjoyed reading this. We saw the beautiful lights when we were in Panama a few years ago. They are beautiful!

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